‘Wine is a real passion of mine’
Letzshop is dedicating an entire month – namely the month of June – to the grapes of the Moselle, or rather to the winegrowers and their wine. And that’s exactly why we invited Luxembourg journalist, publicist, wine critic… and wine fan Claude François on a ‘Tour du Vin’ along the Moselle, as he knows this region like the back of his hand.
Claude François and his wine affinity
Before Claude François embarked on a career in journalism, he was on the verge of a career as a ‘computer scientist and/or electronics engineer’. But writing was also a passion. With a friend, he published a magazine about rock and pop music when he was fourteen, ‘a few polycopied sheets held together with a staple’ and sold from house to house in his hometown of Dudelange for ‘five francs a copy’. A journalist in the making…He then joined the Télécran editorial team as a journalist in the 1980s. Today, Claude François is the editor of the Guide VinsLux and managing director of prima.lu SARL.
What does all this have to do with wine? ‘Passion has always been my driving force. And wine was the constant companion,’ Claude François smiles. ‘I was allowed to drink my first drops of red wine when I was 15,’ he recalls, ‘it was a very good Châteauneuf-du-Pape.’ Claude’s father was no expert, ‘but there was always good wine in our house, including many crus from Luxembourg’.
With his friends, he then began to visit Luxembourg winemakers, ‘and that was sometimes very intense…’. This approach turned into a professional approach to a product ‘that fascinates immensely, because you always have the feeling of discovering another nuance, a hitherto hidden aspect of a crus’, he enthuses.
Today, Claude François is a lover of Luxembourg wines and crémants, and also a passionate fan of Bordeaux crus, ‘no matter whether they come from the Médoc, from the Libournais or from Pessac-Léognan – they just have to have that certain something that makes Bordeaux crus from the best sites unique,’ explains the expert, ‘and they don’t really have to be expensive!’ He also falls for ‘great Barolos, full-bodied Tuscans, hearty Douro reds, powerful Châteauneufs-du-Pape, filigree Burgundies…’.
What is important when choosing a wine?
There are definitely some parameters to consider. For example, tannic, heavy wines do not go well with ‘delicate, filigree dishes’, and a wine that is too light cannot compete with hearty dishes. Price is a criterion, but not the decisive one, because a good crémant can easily take on a more expensive champagne, provided it has been on its lees for at least 24 or 30 months. The quality of the grapes and a smaller harvest are decisive, and not necessarily a prestigious label.
But how do you choose the perfect wine to accompany a meal?
That is the job of a sommelier, and a journalist should not presume to practice this profession. But over time, you naturally develop a feeling for suitable pairings and sometimes daring associations, and it’s fun, even as an occasional amateur chef, to try out new things.
Are there trends in wine?
Sure, the demands and expectations of consumers are constantly changing, and so is the market. I’m thinking, for example, of the trend in Bordeaux wines, which 20 years ago were extremely massive, woody, tannin-rich, overloaded, and which are now much finer and more consumer-friendly. In Luxembourg, the trend goes towards drier wines, with more precise aromatics, they are closer to nature and also have a longer shelf life. And of course, climate change is also noticeable. The 2018 vintage in particular, but also the 2020 vintage, are conspicuous for their very alcohol-rich wines, but the more balanced 2019 vintage has benefited from climate change in other ways. Nevertheless, with the 2021 vintage, there has again been a very moderate, unremarkable vintage, while the 2022 promises excellent wines. I am just starting to systematically taste this vintage, and it is great!
Which wine do you personally prefer? Do you have a personal favourite wine or vintage?
You didn’t ask me about the best wine I’ve ever drunk. That’s a good thing, too. Because I don’t know. I have had the opportunity to drink or taste so many great wines that I can’t even think of which one might have been ‘the best’. All I know is that the wines taste best when you drink them with people you love… And no, I don’t have a favourite wine, I have many favourites. And several favourite varieties: Riesling and Pinot Blanc, Viognier, Cabernet and Merlot, Grenache and Carignan…”.
Do you prefer to drink wine or do you sometimes also drink a beer?
Yes, a beer is also allowed. In summer, when it’s very warm. After a bike ride. And after an intensive wine tasting….
Crémant, of course. And I’d also like a Crémant Rosé.
Crémant, of course. And I’d also like a Crémant Rosé.
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